Friday, June 23, 2017

El-Amarna - The City of Akhenaten .. General Thoroughfares and The Limits of The City – The Central – The Official Quarters .. ( Part 2 )

The site chosen by Akhenaten for his new capital lies about halfway between Cairo and Luxor on the East bank of the Nile . Here the cliffs of the high desert recede from the river, leaving a great semicircle about eight miles long and three broad .
At intervals in the cliffs great clefts make their appearance . These are dry torrent beds or wadys cut by the force of the water which drains off from the downpours of rain which occur periodically between the Nile and the Red Sea . Along these wadys run old forgotten tracks leading to the ports and trading stations to the east . On the summit of the cliffs can still be made out the routes of the patrols which run along the level rim, stopping short at the wadys across which they could challenge each other . Such a system must have been very necessary, since the high desert then, as now, was the refuge of outlaws, and the parties of Mazoi or police setting out on a man-hunt in the hills must have been as frequent a sight at that time as is that of the Sudanese camel-police to-day engaged in the same work .




In the face of the cliffs themselves were carved huge boundary stelae setting the limits of the city and telling the story of its foundation . There are fourteen steles in two sets ( eleven were carved in the eastern mountain, and three in the western mountain ) . The first were carved soon after the fourth year of Akhenaten's reign when he originally decided upon the spot for his new capital . The later ones date from the sixth year when the city, or part of it, was an accomplished fact, and on the latter a reiteration of his vows was made in the eighth year .




More stelae occur on the West bank, enclosing a vast area of fertile ground . Here we may see the land allotted for the fields and estates belonging to the city – for certainly the city proper did not extend to the other side of the river . Naturally Akhenaten wished his city to be self-supporting . There must always have been in the back of his mind the possibility of trouble in the rest of Egypt and his city's being isolated . Both the pictures in the tombs, which depict a river front, and the excavations which show that many of the ancient remains lie below the narrow strip of modern cultivation, seem to indicate that in those days the cultivation on the East bank did not exist and that the houses ran right down to the river . Probably then the West bank was devoted to the supply of the immediate needs of the city and supported a few villages of farm labourers and the bailiffs and servants of the great nobles .




On the East bank the city straggled north and south in a haphazard way along the river .



The main thoroughfares run parallel to the Nile . The Chief of them, called even to this day the Sikket el-Sultan, the King's Way, serves all the most important buildings in the city . It may even have been in existence as a regular road before the city was built . At the South end lies Maru-Aten, a pleasure palace of the King, with a lake and pavilions with gaily painted pavements . The road runs north through the main city and passes between the Palace and the Royal House . Here it is spanned by a bridge with three openings . Above this must have been the Window of Appearance at which Pharaoh would display himself in splendour and throw down the gold of his favour to his faithful followers . Further north it serves the Great Temple . Then it becomes one of the main streets of the modern village of El-Till, and beyond that can be traced at intervals in the modern cultivation . It emerges again for a few hundred yards by the North Palace, re-enters the cultivation and finally comes out between the great wall which fronts the Queen's Palace and the large mansions of the North City . Another important road is High Priest Street, some way further East, from which the estates of many great nobles and officials were entered . This is continued as West Road in the North Suburb . Further East still lies East Road . These roads are connected by others at right angles to them . But there seems to be little town-planning as we know it, except in the Official Quarters of the city . Estates, roughly rectangular in shape, were allotted when the city was founded . The wealthier classes took care to take up those which lined the main roads, leaving the inner space for the less rich . Sometimes a claimholder was unable to take up his allotment and sublet it, so that we find a group of small houses all enclosed within the boundaries of what was originally intended to be one large estate . At the North end of the North Suburb, which was the direction in which the city was expanding at the end of the period, we find that in many cases the boundary trenches have been dug, sometimes the estate walls have been built but the owner had not had time to build his house before the city was deserted . In one case, however, the owner had completed his house even to the interior decoration . All that remained was to hoist into position over his front door the stone lintel which would give his name and titles . The lintel had been hauled up to the steps when the order came to leave the city, and there it was found – roughly blocked out .



As we have said, there seems to be little town-planning except in the Official Quarters . These cover roughly a square kilometre and are situated in the centre of the bay . To the North lay the Great Temple of the Sun's Disk which was to be the crowning achievement of the whole city, with its annexes, the Hall of Foreign Tribute, the house of Penehsy the Chief Servitor of the god, its priests' house and magazines ( storerooms ) . To the South lie the Royal Magazines ( storerooms ) for tribute and the storing of the taxes . Next comes the Royal Estate with its Private Temple . East of this lies the Foreign Office with its Records Magazine ( storeroom ) – the " Place of the Correspondence of Pharaoh " as the bricks are inscribed . Next door is the University or " House of Life ", where the young scribes learnt calligraphy and the art of administration . To the South are rows of clerks' houses all built on a single plan and sharing walls with their neighbours . To the East lie more magazines ( storerooms ) and finally the barracks of the police with the commandant's house, the dormitories and armouries, and the great parade ground with a deep well in the middle, long cobbled stables with mangers and tethering stones to the East and stations for a " flying squad ", in the square itself, to be perpetually in readiness .



This central part of the city was particularly well laid out . The various blocks are self-contained and are divided up by streets as straight as an Egyptian could be expected to make them . The Royal Estate and the Palace together with the Great Temple front on to the main road . The official house of Penehsy has easy access both to the Temple and to his own private house to the South ; a track which must have been made by his passage from one to the other is still visible on the surface of the desert at evening . The barracks are on the edge of the desert so that a clear view could be obtained of any suspicious movement towards the hills and, even more important, there was a clear run for the chariots on the level desert to a point opposite any scene of disturbance in the city before having to traverse narrow streets .



That part of the city which lies to the South of the Official Quarters was probably the first to be built . Here are the great mansions of the most important nobles – Nakht the Vizier, Pa-wah a High priest, General Ramose, Penehsy's private house, that of Ranefer Master of Horse, and many other estates yet unexcavated . Here too was a sculptors' quarter, just north of the broad wady which divides this part of the city in two . It was in this area that the master-sculptor Tuthmosis lived, in whose house were found the numerous works of art now mostly in the Museum at Berlin . Just South of the Palace lies the centre of the glass-making industry .








Part ( 3 ) .. Coming SoOoOon .....
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